GAPP Architects curved the main lodge around the waterhole, in local stone and laminated timber beneath a protective roof shaped like an exoskeleton. Expansive glass dissolves the wall between the interior and the bush beyond. The interiors are by Cécile & Boyd, a neutral palette of bone, ivory and clay, the textures pulled from the landscape outside. One space flows into the next, a café-style bar at the centre spilling toward the pools, the firepit and the decks that reach out over the waterhole below.
Meals follow the day instead of a fixed schedule, laid out on the outdoor decks, in airy enclaves and, now and then, somewhere private. The kitchen leans on fresh, locally sourced produce, and the list of South African wines is well chosen, poured when it suits you. Comfort here is considerable without being showy. The suites are free-standing and air-conditioned, each with a private viewing deck and a Swarovski spotting scope trained on the ground below. Bathrooms hold an indoor bath and an outdoor shower.
Days settle into a rhythm of game drives at first light and late afternoon.
Two swimming pools, a spa and a gym lie beyond the suites, and the mood in all of them stays quiet and restorative, a place to settle into instead of perform in. Days settle into a rhythm of game drives at first light and late afternoon. Between them lie the long hours at the lodge, sundowners in the bush and dinner under the stars. Guiding within the private reserve runs past daytime drives to off-road tracking, spot-lit night drives and guided walking safaris, with balloon flights lifting over the plains.
Faru Faru suits travellers who want the Serengeti’s wildlife at close range, with the privacy of a private reserve and few other vehicles in sight. Children are welcome, and a two-bedroom family suite was built for the purpose, though the guiding leans towards those able to sit quietly on a drive. Guests can also spend time with the Grumeti Fund’s anti-poaching scouts and their canine-supported patrol unit, seeing at first hand the work that brought Eastern black rhino back to ground the animal had been hunted out of.