Between December and March, hundreds of thousands of wildebeest gather on the Kusini short-grass plains to give birth within a few short weeks. The mass of newborns draws intense predator activity, and the open ground lays it bare. Kusini lies apart from the central Ndutu tracks, so game drives here regularly find large herds and hunting cats with barely another vehicle in sight. That is the camp’s strongest argument for the calving season, a front-row seat to the migration’s most dramatic weeks, without the congestion that builds around the busier calving grounds nearby.
The southern camp stands on a low hillside, and the elevation earns its keep. Herds spread across the plains below, storm fronts build along the horizon, and the sunrises and sunsets play out over open ground. Off-road driving is generally prohibited in the Kusini sector, which lies within Serengeti National Park, where the rules require vehicles to keep to designated tracks. Walking is possible in the hills behind camp, following tracks and small signs on foot, a slower way to read the ground that no game drive can quite offer.
The mass of newborns draws intense predator activity, and the open ground lays it bare.
When the camp shifts north for the dry months, the days turn on the Mara River. Herds mass on the banks and plunge across in the face of strong currents and waiting crocodiles, one of the migration’s most charged sequences. Game drives fill the rest, with resident lion, leopard, cheetah, elephant and giraffe moving alongside the migration herds. The kitchen here buys its fresh produce from local communities, guests can visit a nearby Kuria village, and hot-air ballooning over the northern plains can be arranged.
Dinner is a sociable business, three courses in the mess tent, and when the weather holds the tables are laid under the stars beside the campfire. Breakfasts are packed for long days out. The camp itself is built to be dismantled and moved without leaving a permanent mark, and it runs on solar power. Ubuntu suits travellers who want to be genuinely inside the migration, in a smaller and quieter setting, and who are happy to trade a little polish for canvas, firelight and the sounds of the plains.