The suites are canvas and high-ceilinged, set on hardwood decks that follow the line of two kopjes and spaced far enough apart that neighbours are neither seen nor heard. Inside, a lounge opens through sliding doors to a bedroom in pale grey tones, and beyond it a bathroom with a freestanding bath set at a window, with a second shower outside on the deck. The palette runs white and neutral, softened with textured fabric and dark wood. Every deck carries a sunken seating area, two loungers and a plunge pool.
Wildebeest columns do pass through these plains on their seasonal transitions, but the Mara River crossings happen far to the north. What the lodge occupies instead is a resident-game stretch of the eastern Serengeti, where the cats stay put. Resident cats, not migrating herds, are the reason to come here, and timing matters less as a result. The grass supports gazelle, topi, zebra and giraffe in every season, elephant and buffalo move through in numbers, and leopard use the acacia lines along the drainages.
Evenings finish at the campfire, lions calling off the granite, hyena whooping further out.
Nanyukie Lodge opened in October 2018, its main areas built around the view: a double-height lounge and bar, dining indoors and out, and a deck running to a pool with the plains beyond. Evenings finish at the campfire, lions calling off the granite, hyena whooping further out. Meals come at individual tables, breakfast sometimes set out in the grass mid-drive, dinner by lantern under the stars. Among the fifteen suites is a two-bedroom family suite, and a children’s programme runs for younger guests, though the open decks suit older children better.
Light aircraft come into Seronera Airstrip, and a road transfer runs east to the lodge, putting it clear of the vehicle traffic that gathers in the Seronera valley in high season. The plains east of the valley stay quiet as a result. Serengeti National Park rules apply throughout: daytime drives and ranger-escorted walks, no night drives and no off-road driving. On a wider Tanzania itinerary, Nanyukie combines naturally with the northern Serengeti for crossing season, or with Tarangire further south.