Each tent has a private veranda, which can be fitted with a netted enclosure, and an en-suite with a gravity-fed hot bush shower, a flushing toilet and a vanity basin. Solar power runs the lighting and the USB charging points in the tents and the lounge tent, and WiFi reaches across camp, though little else interrupts the dark: there is no light here beyond the lanterns and the fire. Children aged six and over are welcome, and a four-bed family tent can be arranged on request, as can a photo den for photography groups, with tables, chairs and charging points.
Game drives run morning and afternoon across the Ndutu plains, with longer excursions out to Olduvai Gorge, site of the Leakey excavations, or down into the Ngorongoro Crater. Bush walks are booked in advance and go out with Conservation Rangers, Maasai guides and the camp’s own team, reflecting a mixed jurisdiction between the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and the Serengeti. Longer routes climb from the plains into the Ngorongoro highlands and Empakaai, supported by vehicle or by donkey. Maasai families in the area host visits, and the mix of soda lakes, acacia woodland and open plains has produced records of more than 400 bird species.
Elephants move through the acacia woodland and giraffes browse the tree line.
Through the calving months the short grass carries wildebeest and zebra in numbers that change the look of the plains, and it is the calves the cats are watching. Elephants move through the acacia woodland and giraffes browse the tree line. Both striped and spotted hyenas occur around Ndutu, along with caracal and African wildcat. The soda lakes and their marshes, the low acacia woodland ringing them and the short-grass plains beyond all sit within a morning’s drive of each other, and it is this mix of habitat, as much as the herds themselves, that draws the predators in such concentration.
Mornings start with tea or coffee brought to the veranda, and the lounge tent, which holds the bar and a small library of maps and reference books, faces the bush for the hour before dinner. The guides work under the Tanzania Association of Tour Operators’ code of conduct. The same team runs a second camp in the northern Serengeti for the later stages of the migration, moving between the two as the herds do.