Eight tented suites stand within an ancient grove of acacias, looking out over open grassland and the Ngare Nanyuki river valley. Each has a net-draped king bed, a lounge cove and a writing desk, with soft carpets over teak floors and a full bathroom behind the canvas. Three of the tents carry stargazing platforms, reached by a gentle staircase, where a bed can be made up under the open sky. Dinner can be laid out there too, lit by lanterns, with nothing between the table and the Milky Way.
Short grass supports the grazing herds and gives cheetah the open running room they hunt in, while the acacia belts and rocky kopjes along the valley give lion and leopard cover to stalk from and dens in which to raise their cubs. That combination of open ground and edge cover, backed by a healthy prey base, explains the density of predator sightings in this corner of the park. Klipspringer hold to the kopjes, elephant, giraffe and zebra cross the flats, and spotted hyena move through after dark.
Lions call close to camp, hyena whoop across the dark, and long silences fall in between.
Open 4x4s go out morning and afternoon, crossing the Soit le Motonyi plains, the Ngare Nanyuki valley and the woodland edges, the guides tracking cats and staying with them long after a sighting has been ticked off. On foot, a secluded river valley of fig-covered kopjes and hippo pools opens up, walked with an armed guide and open to ages twelve and over. Fly-camping extends the immersion overnight in the bush. Balloon flights lift off from Seronera at dawn and end with breakfast laid out on the plains.
The camp runs entirely on solar power, its canvas structures set among the acacias, not imposed on them. Vehicle numbers stay low across this ground, and by evening the plains are left to themselves. Lions call close to camp, hyena whoop across the dark, and long silences fall in between. Mornings can bring giraffe and zebra grazing within sight of the tents. Time with predators here runs unhurried, in a corner of Serengeti National Park that most vehicles never reach, and that is the whole point of coming.