Main Naibor was designed in 2005 by Anthony Russell, who worked in canvas and pale rustic wood in place of brick and cement. Nigel Archer trained the guiding team and co-owns the camp today alongside Satyan Patel and William and Lisa Sykes. He is a Kenyan whose father ran his first mobile safari in 1957. The camp has stayed independent of Kenya’s larger safari groups, and the guiding reflects it: unhurried, and arranged so that guests keep the same guide throughout a stay.
Three camps share this stretch of the Talek riverbank, which matters when choosing between them. Main Naibor, with its seven tents, suits couples and small groups. Little Naibor, alongside it, holds two suites, each with a double and a twin bedroom either side of a private lounge and veranda, and it has its own vehicle and guide, the more practical choice for a family or four friends travelling together. Naibor Wilderness, three simpler tents a short escorted walk away, can be taken on an exclusive basis by a single party of up to six.
Closer to camp, an unarmed guide leads bird walks along the banks of the Talek.
Game drives run morning and afternoon, or through the day with a picnic, in open-sided 4x4s. Reserve rules are the trade-off for the location: no night drives, and off-road driving only where permitted. Walking is not allowed inside the reserve, so walks take place on Maasai community land beyond its boundary, accompanied by an armed ranger. Closer to camp, an unarmed guide leads bird walks along the banks of the Talek. Balloon flights over the Mara and visits to a nearby Maasai village can be arranged with notice.
Breakfast is a buffet on the deck facing the water, with a hot dish cooked to order, or packed into a box for a first-light departure. Lunch is set at separate tables down by the river: quiches, homemade pizza, salads and fruit. Dinner runs to three courses at individual tables, after drinks by the firepit. The kitchen is run by Wilson Cheruiyot, who joined in 2010 and worked his way up to head chef, a graduate of Utalii College in Nairobi, and the jams and granola are made in camp and kept in reused glass jars. A spa tent handles massages between drives.