Naibor was founded in 2005 and given its look by Anthony Russell, who worked in pale canvas, high ceilings and light indigenous timber, a departure from the darker, heavier furnishings once common in Maasai Mara camps. It remains independently owned, by Nigel Archer, Satyan Patel and William and Lisa Sykes, and the same team runs all three camps in this stretch of woodland. Archer, a third-generation Kenyan safari operator, trains the guiding team himself, so the guides who take each suite out in the morning have been taught in house.
The camp sits in a grove of croton and greenheart trees. Main Naibor holds seven tents around a communal mess, where dinner is candlelit and shared and a private vehicle is offered when the season allows. A short walk through the woodland leads to a simpler three-tent camp, taken on an exclusive-use basis with its own crew and mess, for small groups who want a self-contained stay. Little Naibor is closer to the main camp’s lounge and facilities than the exclusive-use camp, but with a private vehicle and guide included as standard, not on request.
Lions call across the water at night, with hyenas and wildebeest filling in the gaps.
Leopards work the riverine woodland and cheetahs the open plains beyond it, and elephants move through the fringe of trees in the late afternoon. Lions call across the water at night, with hyenas and wildebeest filling in the gaps. Game drives run in open-sided 4WDs, half day or full day, with bush breakfasts on the plains and sundowners on higher ground. Bird walks go out around camp and along the river, and longer walking safaris with an armed ranger take place on Maasai community land outside the reserve, where the game is thinner but the pace changes.
Ol Kiombo is the nearest airstrip, roughly half an hour’s drive from camp and a short scheduled flight from Nairobi. Balloon flights over the plains can be arranged with notice, and a therapist works from the camp’s spa tent between drives. Lunch is usually set out on platforms cut into the riverbank, quiches and homemade pizza under the trees while the hippos carry on below. Visits to Maasai homesteads outside the reserve are straightforward to arrange, as are beading sessions for children who would rather stay in camp.