Each suite is canvas over hardwood decking, entered through carved doors and hung above the stream. The bed faces a private deck, and the bathroom is built around a living ebony trunk, with double basins, a deep copper bath and a large safari shower. Weaver-nest chairs hang from the rail, alongside director’s chairs, a yoga mat, light weights and an exercise bike. Dappled light through the ebony canopy moves across the canvas through the day. Suites can be configured as triples on request.
The main lounge and dining room look over a wide bend in the river, open-sided and shaded, with a leaf-shaped chandelier running the length of the table and pendant lights made from baobab seed pods brought up from Kilifi on the Kenyan coast. There are no fixed meal times, and the day bends around whatever the wildlife is doing. On one evening of a stay the head chef opens the kitchen doors and guests eat at the counter, watching dinner come together. Askaris walk everyone back along the lantern-lit walkways after dinner.
The days follow the wildebeest and zebra herds that come up from the Serengeti.
Driving rights cover both the Maasai Mara National Reserve and the Mara North Conservancy next door, and the two allow different things. Inside the reserve, everything runs on the tracks, and July and August belong to the migration. The days follow the wildebeest and zebra herds that come up from the Serengeti. In the conservancy, guides can walk, drive after dark and take a vehicle off-road to a sighting. Mara Plains Camp, a sister camp a few kilometres away, splits neatly with a stay here, giving guests a wider stretch of the ecosystem than either camp covers alone.
Platforms twist around trunks, a deck wraps around a branch, and the bathrooms were shaped to leave the ebony standing rather than clear it. Much of the timber is reclaimed, some of it from old dhows off the Kenyan coast, and the details run to the same theme: door handles shaped as woodpeckers, lamp bases as monkeys. Well-behaved children over six are welcome, though the mood suits couples and older families best. Ol Kiombo airstrip lies about thirty minutes away by road, and sunrise balloon flights over the plains can be arranged from camp.