Mara Mobile Tented Camp runs in the far northern Serengeti from June to October. When the season ends, the same tents, decking and crew travel south and go back up at Ndutu in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, where the wildebeest calve between December and March before the rains push them north again. It is one camp working two ends of the migration, not two separate builds, and a guest with the time can take both halves in a single year: calving in February, river crossings in August.
Days begin before first light, with 4x4s heading for the river. A herd on the bank since dawn may cross within minutes, or still be there at dusk. Guides spend the hours in between reading where the animals are massing and which crossing points they are favouring. Because the camp lies inside Serengeti National Park and not a private conservancy, driving stays on designated tracks and vehicles are back before dark. Walking is possible in designated wilderness zones with a ranger, with age restrictions for children. Balloon flights operate nearby from Kogatende.
A herd on the bank since dawn may cross within minutes, or still be there at dusk.
The wildlife here does not depend on the herds. Lion prides hold territory across the grassland, leopard work the riverine woodland and cheetah hunt the open plains. Hippo crowd the deeper pools of the Mara, and elephant move through in family groups. Children old enough for the bush join the guides for tracking and spoor identification, and spend time with the Maasai askaris on site. The day finishes for them where it finishes for everyone, at the campfire, marshmallows in hand.
Access is by light aircraft from Arusha or Kilimanjaro to Kogatende airstrip, and the last leg into camp is a game drive in itself. Meals follow the day rather than a timetable. Lunch is served in the shade of the trees, and dinner outside under the stars when the weather allows, cooked in a field kitchen that packs into crates twice a year and travels south with the crew at the end of the season. Breakfast goes out in a basket for anyone spending the full day at the river, and drinks and canapés come round the fire before dinner.