Wesley Krause, an American adventurer, founded the Tanzanian outfitter African Environments in 1983, and Pembazoni is its camp. He was joined in time by the mountaineer and wildlife ecologist Melly Reuling, and by directors Richard and Janice Beatty. The company has long been permitted to lead walking safaris in the Serengeti. Walking is the discipline the whole operation was built around, not an activity bolted onto a game-drive camp later. The team leading it is local and has been at it a long time.
Walks can lengthen into multi-day journeys, with overnight stays under canvas. A lightweight fly camp carries guests deeper into the Wilderness Zone on foot. Game drives run in the good country around the restricted area, where low vehicle numbers keep sightings calm and unhurried. Sunrise balloon flights over the plains can be arranged, and the wider region carries the Great Migration through in season. Further afield are foraging and tracking walks near Lake Eyasi with the Hadzabe, one of East Africa’s last hunter-gatherer communities.
A lightweight fly camp carries guests deeper into the Wilderness Zone on foot.
The day tends to begin with a hot breakfast, fresh fruit and granola before the walk sets out. Lunch might be served back in camp, packed for the trail, or laid out somewhere in the bush. The evening gathers first around the campfire, and dinner runs to three courses in the mess tent or under the open sky. The cooking is generous and built on fresh, local ingredients rather than elaborate presentation, in keeping with everything else here. Nothing about the camp is trying to be more than it is, and that is much of its appeal.
The structures are semi-permanent, built from canvas, local wood and a little stone, and designed to come down without leaving a mark. Filtered water does away with plastic bottles, and waste is handled responsibly throughout. Every stay triggers a donation to the Serengeti de-snaring project, an anti-poaching partnership with TANAPA and the Frankfurt Zoological Society. What remains is a small camp with a clear and single purpose, which is to put guests on the ground and on foot in one of the few corners of the Serengeti still closed to general vehicle traffic.