One guided walk leaves directly from camp, following a Maasai cattle path through mountain forest, dropping roughly twenty minutes into Olmoti before climbing back up in around forty-five. The Empakaai hike is a fuller undertaking, beginning with a drive to the crater rim and then a descent with a conservation area ranger to the soda lake on the floor below, where flamingos gather in their thousands along the shoreline. Few Ngorongoro lodges can reach either of these on foot, which is the real reason to stay this far from the rim.
The eight domes are configured to suit different travellers. Three are standard suites, three carry mezzanine levels for a second sleeping or sitting space, one connects as a family suite, and one is a honeymoon suite with its own outdoor hot tub. Each has an en-suite bathroom with hot running water and a wood-burning stove for the highland chill. Curved bay windows frame the forest and sky, and mornings often begin with mist rising off the slopes before the sun clears it.
Three are standard suites, three carry mezzanine levels for a second sleeping or sitting space
At the heart of the camp stand three communal domes, set at different heights and joined by wooden walkways. Between them they hold a lounge, a bar, a library and a dining room gathered around an indoor fire. The cooking leans towards the hearty and honest, built on locally sourced ingredients, the sort of food that suits a day of walking and a cold night. A good share of the staff comes from the surrounding Maasai communities, and dinner is often accompanied by their singing.
The Highlands Camp suits travellers who want more than the standard crater drive, rewarding those who like to walk, who are curious about the Maasai world at their doorstep, and who respond to bold, modern design over classic safari décor. Older children and teenagers who can manage cool nights and longer walks tend to do best here, where the days are active and the nights genuinely cold.