The towers went up in 2016, the idea of four of Natural Selection’s founders. Among them was Colin Bell, who co-founded Wilderness Safaris in 1983, alongside Dave van Smeerdijk, Dr Jennifer Lalley and James Ramsay. Each tower is timber and canvas, a staircase off the ground giving on to an enclosed bathroom on the first level with flush loo, basin and shower, a dressing area above it, and the open bed on top under the stars.
Khwai Private Reserve covers 200,000 hectares in the northeast corner of the Okavango Delta, a joint venture between the Khwai community, the Khwai Development Trust, private partners Kevin and Shannon Lang, and the camp operator. It was a hunting concession before the switch to photographic tourism. Because this is private land and not national park, the guiding is freer: vehicles can go out after dark and guides can walk with guests, neither of which is permitted in the neighbouring Moremi Game Reserve.
Animals at the waterhole often show up first as reflections on the water.
Elephants come in past the towers through the night, and the mosquito net is the only thing between the bed and the sound of them, so sleep is not guaranteed. The bathroom sits a level below the bed, which means a climb down in the dark if it is needed. Around ten steps reach the first level and more take you to the top deck, so the platforms suit nobody unsteady on their feet or uneasy with heights, and step-free access is not possible. Hot water for the shower comes on request or first thing in the morning, not necessarily on demand.
Couples make up most of the guest list, and a group of six can take all three towers for exclusive use, the whole camp to themselves. The minimum age is generally set in the mid-teens, dropping to 12 when a family books the whole camp, and children are never left on the platforms unsupervised. The best of it comes in the last light before dinner. Animals at the waterhole often show up first as reflections on the water. Helicopter flights over the Delta can be arranged from the reserve’s camps.