Khwai Private Reserve was a hunting concession until previous shareholders turned it over to photographic safaris in 2009, and when Botswana lifted its hunting ban in 2019 nobody chose to go back. The reserve is run in partnership between the Khwai Development Trust, the community at Khwai Village, and Kevin and Shannon Lang. The camp opened as Hyena Pan and took its present name from the animals that dominate the water. Four founders stand behind Natural Selection, the company that manages it: Colin Bell, who co-founded Wilderness Safaris in 1983, with Dave van Smeerdijk, Jennifer Lalley and James Ramsay.
Camp life happens on a raised timber deck under thatch, where the bar is cut from an old log and the plunge pool is set with the pan in full view. Afternoons are slow by design. Elephants walk down to the water while guests sit in the plunge pool, and nobody moves much. After dark the pan is lit and the deck stays busy long after dinner, and there is a lounge and a small library for the hours in between. Meals are home cooking, eaten at shared tables on the deck or beside the fire pit in the sand.
Elephants walk down to the water while guests sit in the plunge pool, and nobody moves much
Walking and night drives are both possible because this is a private reserve rather than a national park, and the difference matters. Guides can leave the tracks to follow a wild dog pack, spotlight after dinner, and take small groups on foot over the open ground near the hide with an armed guide. Sleepouts on raised platforms above a waterhole run from April to October and need booking in advance. Rangers take guests out on dawn patrols to collect predator monitoring data. There are visits to Khwai Village, and helicopter flights over the Okavango Delta.
Getting in means a light aircraft from Maun to the Khwai Private airstrip, about thirty-five minutes, then an hour along sandy track to camp. Drives through the thicker mopane can be quiet, and it is the pan and the hide that carry the wildlife viewing, which is why Elephant Pan suits people happy to stay put and watch. Over 200 people from Khwai Village harvest thatching grass in the reserve each season, work that has roofed the village preschool. Rangers under conservation manager Gofiwa Thebanala have spent years teaching leopards, wary after decades of hunting, to tolerate a vehicle.