Two outings a day are discussed with the guides on arrival, and each follows what the water and the animals are doing. Motorboats with aluminium hulls and canvas roofs cover the distance, running the deeper channels and out across the open lagoon. Mokoros go where engines cannot. They are poled quietly through lily-covered shallows, with the passenger sitting just above the waterline. From that height, an elephant feeding at the water’s edge fills the whole frame. The only sound is the pole, and the reeds brushing against the hull.
On the larger islands, walks go out with the guides. The island lies within a private concession. The pace is slow, and the subject is whatever the ground offers. The guides read fresh spoor in the sand, while birds work the woodland edge around them. A stay here covers the water half of an Okavango Delta itinerary. The sister camps on Xakanaxa Lagoon cover the land half with game drives, and a few nights at each make a complete trip.
From that height, an elephant feeding at the water’s edge fills the whole frame.
The middle of the day belongs to the pool, where buffalo grazing across the lagoon are about as busy as the view gets. After the afternoon outing, the evening moves onto the fire deck, with flames catching on the black water and the first stars showing over the reeds. Dinner is communal as a rule, and with boat crews and walking groups returning from different corners of the lagoon, the table has plenty to compare. The rondavel-style bar sits in the main area, and the curio shop and reception share the multi-level decks.
Xugana Island Lodge takes no more than 22 guests at a time, arriving at Xugana airstrip, a short transfer from the lodge. Families are among them: children are welcome from six, and families choose between the family tent added during the rebuild and a pair of tents booked as interleading rooms. That rebuild changed the decks and the power supply, but it left the days alone. They keep to a pattern older than the new decks: boats go out in the early morning, then head out again as the afternoon heat lifts off the water.