Guides here prefer to mix things up. A morning drive may run long, or turn into a full day out with chairs, blankets and a proper lunch laid at a scenic bend of the water. The mokoro move by pole through the lily beds, quiet enough to hear drops fall from the blade. On foot, with an armed guide ahead, the hours go to tracking spoor across island floodplains and into the mopane woodland. And after dark the vehicles cover ground that would be off-limits inside a government-controlled reserve.
Maxa was built in partnership with the Mmagamka Trust and the Bukakhwe community of nearby Gudigwa village. Concession fees and employment flow to the village, and guests can spend time with Bukakhwe members learning how plants are used, how tracks are read, and how this corner of the Delta was lived in long before it carried a concession number. Saplings displaced during construction were potted on site, waiting to be replanted. Power comes from solar, and water is purified in camp and served in refillable glass bottles.
The mokoro move by pole through the lily beds, quiet enough to hear drops fall from the blade.
Maxa lies within the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area. Boating on the deeper channels depends on water levels through the season. There is no cellphone reception in camp, and there is neither television nor radio. Adults tend to drift toward the sala beneath the ebonies, or the sunset deck behind the old termite mound, watching the lagoon settle for the evening. What fills the quiet after dark is hippo, and on some nights the calling of lions.
Children are accepted from the age of six, and the fifth tent is built for them: two sleeping areas divided by curtains, a shared bathroom and an extra outdoor shower, sleeping up to four. Arranged in advance, the Young Explorers programme pairs a specialist family guide with the children, and their mornings go to casting tracks, learning birds and taking a first lesson at the pole of a mokoro. Fishing can be arranged for anyone who wants it, and the full-day outings go out with a proper bush picnic.