Light aircraft bring guests from Maun to the shared Chitabe airstrip, and a game drive covers the rest of the way. The lodge also keeps a resident helicopter, used for transfers and for scenic flights over the Delta. The final approach is made on foot, beneath wild palms and gnarled fig trees, and the pangolin roof shows itself only at the last moment. Behind the lodge, golden grass runs out across the floodplain to palm islands and giant termite mounds, and the drives reach them however high the floodwater rises.
Open at the sides and low to the ground, the main lodge gives the dining room straight onto the floodplain, its deck running out past the roofline. The day is marked by what arrives on the viewing platform upstairs, cappuccino at sunrise and gin and tonic at sunset. Dinner moves between the dining room and a log boma under the stars. In the interactive kitchen, guests are handed the dough for their own pizzas, baked in a traditional oven, or the makings of a gourmet burger, and Botswana beef and artisan breads fill out the menu.
Monkeys scramble over the shingled roofs, and crocodiles lie almost submerged in the channel.
Children of every age can stay. The Family Suite links two suites by a covered walkway for two adults and two children, or three on request, and one standard suite takes a third bed for a child of 16 or under. A children’s programme keeps three- to twelve-year-olds busy with activities of their own, and childminders can be booked on arrival. Game drives are open from age six, at the camp manager’s discretion. Younger children head out in a private vehicle, at their family’s own pace.
Giraffes and wildebeest come close to camp, and so do buffalo and hyenas. Monkeys scramble over the shingled roofs, and crocodiles lie almost submerged in the channel. Each suite keeps a pair of binoculars for watching all this from the deck, along with a Guides’ Journal to take home. Once night falls, the main lodge comes into its own, lit by pendant lamps shaped like woven baskets. Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge was built to be seen this way, glowing low among the trees as the night drive returns.