The way in is by helicopter from Vumbura airstrip, a transfer flown low over the floodplains so that the arrival is already part of the safari. What waits at the end of it is small: eight tented suites, eighteen guests at most, sandy paths winding through croton and mopane instead of raised walkways. The central deck carries the dining room, lounge and bar, with a circular plunge pool at its front and a fire pit that becomes the centre of the evening once the light goes. Wi-Fi reaches the camp, and there is no cellphone signal.
The concession is private, not a national park, so guiding is not confined to daylight or to roads. Drives go out in open vehicles morning and late afternoon with a guide and a tracker, and the night drives that follow turn up porcupines, genets, civets and bush babies in the spotlight. Walking safaris are led by San trackers who read the ground for prints and plants. They fill in the insects, the birdsong and the small things most people walk straight past. Walking and mokoro trips are open to guests aged twelve and over.
Walking safaris are led by San trackers who read the ground for prints and plants.
When water levels allow, boating runs along roughly 20 kilometres of the Selinda Spillway, and the mokoro comes out. Poled from the stern, a dugout moves slowly enough to hear painted reed frogs before spotting them, while malachite kingfishers hunt those same stems from low perches and red lechwe splash off through the shallows. The water programme shifts month to month with the flood, and never to a fixed calendar. When conditions are safe, there are occasional supervised dips in the Delta.
Meals follow the day rather than a clock: coffee at the fire before dawn, a packed breakfast carried into the bush, lunch at individual tables under the trees, tea in the late afternoon. Dinner is communal and set, often served outside, and might run to corn soup with fresh bread, Okavango bream or wine-braised oxtail, with custard tart to finish. Afterwards the fire gets going and someone usually starts talking. Guests are walked back to their tents after dark, since elephant pass through camp on their own schedule.