Water levels here answer to rain that fell on the Angolan highlands months earlier, working down the Okavango River and out into the sand basin. The effect inverts expectation, because Botswana’s dry winter months, June to August, are the Delta’s high-water season. Guests land at the airstrip and are poled the last stretch to camp by mokoro. When the floodplains fall back between November and March that arrival becomes a guided walk instead, and the channels that carried mekoro in winter narrow to sandbanks and reed beds.
Mekoro here are hand-carved from wood rather than moulded in fibreglass, bought from the village woodcarvers who make them, which keeps the craft in work locally. Poled with a ngashi, they thread through papyrus and lily channels. They move at the pace of the water, reeds brushing the hull, sitatunga slipping aside. On the islands walking takes over. Chief’s Island holds the Delta’s main body of dry land, and the tracks of lion, leopard and wild dog turn up on the sand at first light, while buffalo, giraffe and red lechwe graze the swamp fringes.
They move at the pace of the water, reeds brushing the hull, sitatunga slipping aside.
Each chalet is paired with one guide for the length of the stay, met at the airstrip and staying with the party through every walk and every mokoro trip. There is no fixed timetable, and mornings begin when the guests do. The guides walk unarmed, relying on tracking, on wind direction and on long familiarity with how elephant and lion behave, and some travellers will want to weigh that before committing. There is no phone signal, no wifi, no generator hum, so the sound of the Delta is what fills the evenings.
A multi-night walking and mokoro trail extends onto Chief’s Island itself, with the first and last nights spent at Delta Camp. Guests pole out with light equipment, pitch dome tents deep in the island, cook over a fire and wash from a bucket. Back at camp, meals are taken together at one long table on the raised deck, the cooking homely, the talk running from pre-walk coffee to well after dinner. Visits to the nearby village, home to many of the staff and guides, are led by the people who grew up there.