Sweeping ramps lead down from the main area to a lower deck, where seating gathers around two open-air fire pits. Up at the main level, walkways join one room to the next, so moving between the two lounges and the dining room means stepping through open air rather than down a corridor. The library is stocked with wildlife reference books, and the same walkways lead on to a self-service bar and a curio shop. A third deck holds the rim-flow pool, with a thatched lounge beside it out of the sun. Further walkways run out to the suites through the thick island vegetation.
Brunch and afternoon tea are laid out on the wide open-air patio beyond the dining room, fitted between outings by boat and mokoro, while dinner moves between several settings, indoors and out. After dark the fires on the lower deck are lit, and the day on the water gets talked over. Before long someone reaches for the library’s reference books, which settle most disputes about a bird glimpsed from the boat. Laundry is washed and returned every day, which means the bags can be packed light.
After dark the fires on the lower deck are lit, and the day on the water gets talked over
Children are welcome from the age of six, and the family suite was designed around them. Its two interleading bedrooms each have their own bathroom, and between them they sleep two adults and up to three children. Out on the water the motorboats carry life jackets. Seasonal fishing for bream and tigerfish uses tackle kept in camp, so no one needs to pack a rod.
Neil’s licence was approved in 1980, and on the island lease that followed she built Camp Okavango. By 1991 the spread of new lodges across Botswana had left her uneasy about commercialisation, and she walked away from the industry. In 1992 her camps changed hands, and Camp Okavango was refurbished and extended. The 2016 rebuild replaced everything that stood on her island, but kept her premise of a safari run entirely by boat and on foot.