During the 2020 lockdown, fire took the reserve’s rustic Tree Top Camp entirely. Rather than replicate the treehouse that had stood there, group managing director Fritz Vorster and his team chose to rebuild on the same footprint, at an altogether different level of ambition, and brought in Nicholas Plewman Architects and Fox Browne Creative to do it. Camp Kala reopened in November 2022, raised on wooden walkways and gum poles that keep the whole structure light on the ground it occupies.
Before Onguma became a reserve, this was cattle-ranching country, once held by a German couple named Böhme. The 34,000 hectares of today were pieced together from four separate farms, among them Vergenoeg, Ruimte and Operet. Those old boundaries mean little now. Lion, leopard, cheetah and elephant move between Etosha and the reserve without interruption. The plains game does the same, gemsbok, kudu and red hartebeest following water and grazing rather than any line on a map.
Lion, leopard, cheetah and elephant move between Etosha and the reserve without interruption.
Each of the four suites works as three linked spaces: a living room with its own bar, a sleeping area under mosquito netting, and a bathroom with double vanities, a deep soaking tub and showers both indoors and out. Outside, a private deck holds a wood-fired hot tub, a plunge pool and a fire pit. A raised walkway leads on to a shaded sala and daybed, the place to watch the spring through the slow hours of the afternoon. A localised cooling system chills only the bed, so the glass doors can stay open to the sound of the bush all night.
A daily rhino levy funds security and dehorning for the reserve’s black rhino, patrolled by an anti-poaching unit that monitors the land by drone. The kitchen’s vegetables come from the Oshivelo farming project, founded in 2012, which employs around 180 people, most of them local women. Self-drive guests can visit the Ombili San community. Dinner might arrive on the deck beside the fire pit, or in the open kitchen, or out at a remote waterhole on the Dream Cruiser sleep-out, where the night finishes under open sky.