Horses go out from the stables into open country, among white rhino, reticulated giraffe and zebra, animals that tolerate a rider far more easily than a person on foot. Novice riders are taken out as readily as experienced ones, and there are pony rides on the lawn for children. Camels cover the same ground more slowly, led by Samburu handlers. Walking slows things further again, with a guide and Kenya Wildlife Service rangers, down to tracks, dung and the smell of warm acacia scrub on the afternoon wind.
Will Craig flies a yellow open-cockpit WACO biplane of 1930s design over the northern slopes of Mount Kenya, whose snow-capped summit fills the southern horizon. To the north, the ground drops away towards Samburu country and the Matthews Range. Sundowners on a rock kopje can face either direction. South of the conservancy the Ngare Ndare forest holds cedar and olive, waterfalls and cold plunge pools, and a canopy walkway suspended above the forest floor, walked with a guide because elephants use the same ground.
At around 1,700 metres the nights turn cold, which is why every cottage has its own hearth
The main mess is open-fronted, stone and heavy timber under thatch, with hardwood furniture made in the conservancy’s own carpentry workshop and woven rugs over polished floors. The vegetables, herbs and fruit come from an organic garden nearby. Meals follow the party’s own hours rather than a lodge timetable: breakfast by the pool, bush breakfasts cooked over embers in a dry riverbed after early tracking, and dinner at one long table on the veranda, or beside a fire when the highland night turns cold.
At around 1,700 metres the nights turn cold, which is why every cottage has its own hearth, an en-suite bathroom and a wooden veranda over the valley. Five separate cottages, rather than bedrooms off a corridor, let a family of ten or three couples travelling together disappear from one another for an hour and reconvene at the pool. Children are welcome, and arrangements for younger guests are made directly, since the house goes to a single party. Elsewhere on Lewa, lodges run on shared vehicles and shared dining rooms. Here the group has its own.