Guy Grant took on this stretch of Laikipia as a cattle ranch after Kenyan independence. His son Murray, born on it, began building the lodge by hand in 2005, with a team who hauled rocks up from the riverbed for the foundations. Murray’s wildlife bronzes stand around the cottages alongside hand-carved furniture. Sophie arrived in 2008, built the hospitality side up from there and wrote The Bush Kitchen in 2022. The difference from a branded lodge shows in small ways: the owners are at supper, and the men who built the place are still working on it.
Kenya Wildlife Service registered the surrounding land as a conservancy in January 2023, and a ranger team now patrols it under a ten-year management plan. Elephants and cattle share the grazing, and the family began planting indigenous seedlings in 2020 to repair what the herds and the dry years take out. Mpala Research Centre, the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and the Grevy’s Zebra Trust partner on the monitoring. A rock hide at Murera Dam puts photographers close to the water without a vehicle. Elephants are easier to find in the weeks after rain, and the dry months ask for more patience.
A rock hide at Murera Dam puts photographers close to the water without a vehicle.
Guests visit Daraja Academy, a secondary school nearby. The kitchen works from the shamba and the dairy, with milk from the calf-friendly herd and lamb reared on the ranch, and beef, pork and chicken from regenerative farmers in the district. Meals move around, taken in the barn-like Bush Kitchen, on a private veranda, or at a table under a Boscia tree on stays of three nights or more. Cinnamon rolls come off the charcoal at breakfast, and gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian cooking is handled without fuss.
Nairobi to El Karama Lodge is about four hours by road through Nanyuki, tarmac giving way to dirt. Helicopters reach the lodge directly, opening up add-ons such as fly-fishing on Mount Kenya or a run north to Lake Turkana. Three or four nights work well between Nairobi and the Maasai Mara, or in the middle of a longer Kenyan itinerary. Guests set on high big-game numbers, or on rhino, should plan a day at Ol Pejeta or Solio, and anyone after an adults-only, minimalist finish will find the atmosphere here more domestic and family-oriented.