Days on the Equator are bright, and the nights are cold enough for a hot water bottle at turndown and a fire in the mess tent. The tents stand on low timber platforms under indigenous woodland, 1,829 metres up, canvas doors rolled open through the afternoon to let the light in. Inside there are earth-red rugs and wooden desks, twin basins and a solar-heated shower behind the sleeping area. Each tent has a veranda and a hammock. Camp closes for a spell in the long rains, when they soften the ground.
Ol Pejeta’s anti-poaching unit works with bloodhounds, and guests are given a head start before the dogs are put on the scent, a training exercise for animals that do the same work in earnest against poachers. A chimpanzee sanctuary nearby shelters animals rescued from the bushmeat and pet trades, and because chimpanzees are not native to Kenya the work there is welfare rather than conservation. Night drives with a spotlight turn up porcupines, civets and bushbabies. A full day out can take in the Ngare Ndare forest canopy walkway and its waterfall pools.
Night drives with a spotlight turn up porcupines, civets and bushbabies.
Lunch is taken in the small mess tent beside the dam, three light courses, with coal-fired pizza on Tuesdays. Lenroad Kisombe has run the kitchen here for more than two decades, and his dishes run to pumpkin and orange soup, beef Wellington, and a Kenyan tasting plate of ugali, chapati, goat stew and kachumbari. Vegetables and herbs come from the camp’s own garden, the beef and lamb from cattle grazing the conservancy alongside the wildlife. Breakfast is often pre-ordered and taken out in the bush as a box. Wine bottles are recycled into the glasses on the table.
Nanyuki airstrip is about an hour by air from Nairobi’s Wilson Airport, then a drive to camp, which makes it a straightforward first or last stop on a Kenyan itinerary. Black rhino, elephant, giraffe and zebra are reliably seen within a two-night stay. The vehicles are built for photography, open-sided, with bean bags and padded rests for long lenses. Children of all ages can stay in the two-bedroom family suite, though age limits apply on walking safaris.