In 1922, the Craig family began running cattle across Lewa Downs, the plains below Mount Kenya that now form part of the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. Four generations on, Will and Emma Craig host Lewa Wilderness in the same up-country farmhouse spirit that shaped the original ranch. It is one of Kenya’s longest-running conservation stories, told on land the same family has worked for more than a century.
Few places in Kenya can trace a line this direct
The turning point came in the early 1980s, when Anna Merz partnered with the Craigs to establish the Ngare Sergoi Rhino Sanctuary on this ground. The conservancy now holds more than 200 black and white rhino, and guests see them on most drives. Few places in Kenya can trace a line this direct, from cattle ranch to rhino refuge within a single family’s care, and that continuity runs through everything here.
Six hillside cottages look over the Marania Valley towards Mount Kenya, each built for privacy, their verandas set out above the valley floor. Closer to the main lodge, three garden cottages stand among lawns thick with bougainvillea, where birdsong carries along a stream that runs past the dining room. Meals draw on the lodge’s own garden, and the evenings gather around fireplaces and a shared table.
You might ride out among plains game on horseback in the morning
Because Lewa is a private conservancy rather than a national park, the days run well past the standard game drive. You might ride out among plains game on horseback in the morning, trek by camel through the heat, walk with an experienced guide, then drive again after dark. Will Craig takes it further still, flying guests over the conservancy in an open-cockpit WACO biplane. Stone, wood and thatch run throughout, and with the furniture built on site, the old farmhouse character stays intact.
What began as a cattle operation in 1922 slowly made room for wildlife, until the early 1980s brought the change that would define the place. Partnering with Anna Merz, the Craig family established a sanctuary for endangered black rhino on the same ground, and that single decision reshaped the whole holding. The land is now part of the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, where it protects around 12% of Kenya’s black rhino and a significant population of Grevy’s zebra. Four generations of the same family have worked this ground, and their continuity runs through everything the lodge does.
The conservancy’s open savannah, acacia woodland and wetland give elephant, lion, leopard, cheetah and buffalo room to range, sharing the ground with giraffe and large herds of plains game. A stream runs past the lodge’s main areas, drawing elephant, giraffe and zebra within view of the veranda through the changing hours of the day. There is room to breathe out here. Conservancy rules cap the number of vehicles at a sighting, and often there are none at all, which sets the days apart from a national park where the crowds gather at a single lion.
Stone, wood and thatch run throughout, and the furniture is handcrafted on site
The conservation work is never held at arm’s length from guests. Talks explain how the conservancy runs day to day, while a visit to its headquarters opens a window onto the rhino and Grevy’s zebra monitoring, and the anti-poaching operations that protect them. That care reaches well beyond the wildlife, into schools, health clinics, water projects and a women’s micro-credit programme across the surrounding communities, work that guest stays help to fund. Little of it stays behind the scenes, and the people who run it are the same family who host the lodge.
The nine cottages divide into two styles. Six are built into the hillside for privacy, with long views over the Marania Valley, while three sit among the lawns and suit families travelling with children. Stone, wood and thatch run throughout, and the furniture is handcrafted on site, so a saltwater pool and reliable Wi-Fi in the main area sit easily alongside the ranch-house character, comfort without a hint of the hotel. Access is by scheduled or charter flight from Nairobi to the Lewa Downs airstrip, a short drive from the lodge.
01
accommodation
The nine cottages come in two styles. Six are built into the hillside for privacy, their verandas reaching over the Marania Valley, and one among them is a two-bedroom suite with a private plunge pool. The three garden cottages sit among lawns near the main areas, each with two en-suite bedrooms opening onto a shared sitting room and fireplace. Stone, wood and thatch run throughout, the furniture handcrafted on site.
02
activities
As a private conservancy, Lewa opens the day far wider than a national park allows, with drives by day and after dark, guided walks, riding among plains game and treks by camel, most of it beyond the reach of Kenya's national parks. Will Craig flies guests over the conservancy and Mount Kenya in an open-cockpit WACO biplane. Fly-camping, conservation talks, community visits and a saltwater pool round out the stay.
03
conservation
Rhino conservation on Lewa began in the early 1980s, when Anna Merz partnered with the Craig family to establish the Ngare Sergoi Rhino Sanctuary. The conservancy now protects over 200 black and white rhino and a significant Grevy's zebra population, and guests can visit its headquarters to see the monitoring and anti-poaching work first hand. That same commitment carries into neighbouring communities through schools, health clinics, water projects and a women's micro-credit scheme.
Get in touch and let’s start the conversation. An initial consultation helps us understand what you’re looking for, whether that’s specific experiences, luxury touches, or marking a special occasion, and from there we’ll guide you through what’s possible so you can decide if we’re the right fit.
01
Laikipia Highlands
02
Laikipia Highlands
03
Laikipia Highlands
04
Laikipia Highlands
05
Laikipia Highlands
06
Laikipia Highlands
07
Laikipia Highlands
08
Laikipia Highlands
09
Laikipia Highlands
10
Laikipia Highlands
11
Laikipia Highlands
12
Laikipia Highlands
13
Laikipia Highlands
14
Laikipia Highlands
You fly from Nairobi's Wilson airport to the Lewa Downs airstrip, a light-aircraft hop of about an hour, and the lodge collects you for the short drive across the conservancy. We arrange the flights and time them to your international connection. If you prefer, we can make that leg a private charter, typically a Cessna Caravan or Pilatus PC-12, flown direct to Lewa Downs on your own timings.
The small planes take soft bags of roughly fifteen kilograms per person including hand luggage, so a duffel is the right choice. The family also flies guests over Lewa and Mount Kenya in an open-cockpit WACO biplane, which is a memorable way to see the country.
Lewa sits on the Laikipia highlands, a lower-risk malaria area rather than a malaria-free one. The altitude and dry air suppress mosquitoes, but the conservancy is still below the height at which the CDC and TravelHealthPro regard risk as negligible, so antimalarial tablets are usually advised.
As this concerns your health and the guidance is reviewed regularly, please check the current advice with a travel clinic or your doctor, and take the normal precautions against bites once it is dark.
This is high, cool savanna, so warm days give way to cold mornings and nights whatever the month. The dry seasons are clear and dusty, while the rains around March to May and later in the year green the valley and bring the odd shower.
Bring a warm layer for early rides and drives, sun protection for the day, neutral colours, and closed shoes for the walking and camel treks. A light waterproof is sensible in the wetter months.
The dry months of July to September and December to February give the strongest game viewing, as animals draw in to water and clear skies suit the riding, walking and sleep-outs. The green seasons are quieter and good for birds, with the wildlife more spread out.
With the altitude keeping nights cold year round, the decision is really about dry-season clarity versus green-season calm.
Very likely. Lewa is a working rhino conservancy holding more than two hundred black and white rhino, and guests see them on most drives, which is not something a typical national park can promise. The wider conservancy also carries the dry-country species of the north alongside the general plains game.
Because this is private conservancy land, the day runs well past the standard drive, with riding among the plains game, walking, camel treks and flying all part of the offering.
Yes, and it has a long family tradition. The nine cottages include a two-bedroom suite with its own plunge pool, and the garden cottages hold two en-suite bedrooms around a shared sitting room, which works well for families. The riding, camel treks, fly-camping and swimming pool give children plenty to do off the vehicle.
Riding and walking depend on age and ability, so tell us your children's ages and experience and we will tailor the days and, where useful, arrange a private guide and vehicle.
rated five stars by our clients
01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08
09
10
our approach
Every journey starts with a conversation. We take the time to understand your vision before we start planning.
Whether by phone or in person, we work with you directly to shape something that is considered, personal, and expertly delivered.
