Colin Francombe spent some twenty-five years managing the Ol Ari Nyiro ranch for the conservationist Kuki Gallmann, and helped organise Kenya’s first ivory bonfire in 1989. In 1991 he and Rocky bought overgrazed cattle ground on the edge of the Laikipia escarpment and built the lodge themselves, living in tents while they did it. Their children carry different parts of it forward now, Julia through the Samburu Trust, Andrew with the helicopter and the Nomad trail, Chyulu on horseback. Colin and Rocky still live at the lodge, where evenings run on stories told by the fire.
Mornings start with bronze bells as the camels are loaded. Walkers set off first, the pack string behind them, and the riders take the longer line along the escarpment, a place on horseback being for experienced riders only. Breakfast happens on flat rock in a dry riverbed, coffee brewed on the spot. By midday the new camp is standing under acacia, and boots come off for a bucket shower slung from a branch, the water heated on the cook fire. Dinner is cooked over wood coals and eaten by lantern light.
Breakfast happens on flat rock in a dry riverbed, coffee brewed on the spot.
The trail is sold with nights at Ol Malo Lodge rather than on its own. Four stone-and-thatch cottages stand on the escarpment rim there, above a cliff-edge pool that looks down on a waterhole and salt lick, so the pattern runs to a few nights of plumbing and long views, then two or more under canvas, then back again. The lodge, the house and the Nomad camp all close in April, May and November, when heavy rain makes the rivers and the tracks unreliable.
Children of any age are welcome at the lodge, while the walking and riding, and the bush bathrooms of the Nomad trail, work best from about five upwards. Anyone who wants a plumbed bathroom every night, a pool after lunch and the option of doing very little is better served staying at the lodge, where the same guides, camels and horses go out on day rides and walks. What the Nomad trail adds is distance: several days of ground covered on foot or in the saddle, sleeping wherever the day ends, with the tent’s mesh flaps rolled back over the bed.