The land is the family’s own ranch and conservancy, not a national park, so the day goes where the group wants it: off-road after a sighting, out on foot with Samburu guides reading tracks and naming medicinal plants, under a spotlight after dark, or down to the riverbed on camels. The Ewaso Ng’iro does the rest, with inner tubes over the rocky rapids, line fishing for catfish and barbel, and lunch laid out under the fig trees on the bank. Meals come off the ranch itself: organic beef and lamb, milk, eggs and vegetables from the gardens.
Andrew flies, which puts Lake Turkana within a single day. Helicopter days run doors-off, down through the river gorges and out over the sand dunes of the northern frontier, until the Jade Sea opens ahead and the machine settles on a wild shore for a swim. Fishing there turns up Nile perch and tiger fish. Anyone who wants to stay the night sleeps at a lantern-lit camp on the lake’s South Island.
Andrew and Chyulu run the house at whatever pace suits the group in it
Children of any age are welcome, and the house was built with them in mind, though it is the nights out they remember. The Leopard Hide is set into a rock crevice above a floodlit waterhole. Bunks and viewing ports look down onto it, and the Treehouse is an open platform up in an acacia, mosquito nets and stars overhead. Days fill with spear throwing and tracking lessons, milking the dairy cows and collecting eggs, then the pool. Samburu child-minders can be arranged with notice. The Samburu Trust, founded by Andrew’s sister Julia, runs a school and clinic on the ranch alongside its beadwork and conservation work.
Getting there is a choice: scheduled flights from Nairobi’s Wilson Airport to Loisaba and a road transfer of under an hour, or a private charter direct onto Ol Malo’s own airstrip. The house closes in April, May and November for the rains. The Laikipia Highlands drop away northwards here toward the frontier country, and at roughly 1,600 metres the air stays dry through the day, cooling by evening to a fire in the sitting room, cedar smoke, hot chocolate for some and whisky for others, after an afternoon on the river. Andrew and Chyulu run the house at whatever pace suits the group in it.