Game drives run morning and evening in open 4x4s, and continue after dark for the nocturnal animals that day drives miss. Walking safaris go out with the conservancy’s own rangers, who read tracks and dung instead of covering ground. Horses and camels change the arithmetic: wildlife tends to hold its ground around them in a way it does not around people on foot, so riders often get closer, calmer sightings. Samburu handlers lead the camel rides, which go out in the evening, when the heat has gone off the plains.
A full day can be given to Ngare Ndare Forest, reached by picnic excursion from the camp. East Africa’s longest canopy walkway runs about ten metres above the forest floor, through ferns and vine-hung trees. It ends at cold river pools where a waterfall drops into a basin clear enough to swim in. Black-and-white colobus monkeys work the canopy overhead. Elephants use the forest too, moving through the corridor and underpass completed in 2010, which links Mount Kenya’s forests to Lewa and the rangelands further north.
It ends at cold river pools where a waterfall drops into a basin clear enough to swim in
Lewa and the neighbouring Ngare Ndare Forest were inscribed in 2013 as an extension of the Mount Kenya World Heritage Site. On Lewa’s plains are reticulated giraffe, Beisa oryx, gerenuk and Somali ostrich, buffalo herds and cheetah, and lions whose calls carry to camp after dark. Wild dogs pass through. More than 400 bird species have been recorded here, and the doves and francolins start up long before the vehicles do. Evenings run to a fire in the sitting area, and the plains give back nothing after dark but sound.
Lewa’s community programme reaches well past the boundary: government schools across three counties have gained classrooms, dormitories and laboratories, and annual bursaries carry students through them. Clinics treat tens of thousands of people a year, water projects have followed, and low-interest loans have gone to more than a thousand women running small businesses. Most of the several hundred people Lewa employs come from neighbouring communities. A morning can go to the anti-poaching unit and its tracker dogs, to a school or clinic, or to a Samburu homestead nearby.