Twelve canvas tents make Mbamba among the larger camps in this sector of the northern Delta: six twins, four doubles and two family tents that each sleep up to four. Twins outnumbering doubles is unusual on safari, and useful for friends travelling together. With two family tents and a minimum age of six, this is workable ground for children too. The tents stand on low wooden decks threaded around the leadwoods, not through them, each with a private veranda, an en-suite bathroom and an over-bed cooling system for the hot months.
Much of the newer building in the Okavango Delta runs to pale timber, glass and restraint. Mbamba goes the other way, with campaign chests and curio cabinets, storm lanterns, heavy canvas and worn rugs across the two lounges. Around the firepit at night, hyena whoop across the plains and wild dogs hunt in the dark. It suits guests who want theatre and patina over pared-back design, and who like company. Dinner is family-style at one long table, under canvas or out under the stars.
Around the firepit at night, hyena whoop across the plains and wild dogs hunt in the dark.
Sable antelope move through the concession in numbers, alongside roan and tsessebe, giraffe, zebra, red lechwe and large buffalo herds. More than 350 bird species have been recorded here, among them wattled crane, Pel’s fishing owl, slaty egret and carmine bee-eater. Guests arrive by light aircraft from Maun, around forty-five minutes in the air, and then a drive transfer into camp. Scenic helicopter flights can be arranged, as can an excursion to the rock paintings at Tsodilo Hills.
Between April and October the flood is up and the water activities run. From November the channels pull back, storm skies build over the ilala palms, and elephant and buffalo herds shift with the new grass. The swimming pool sits in its own tented pavilion, with loungers and a view worth keeping binoculars for, and the mess tent holds a small library and a well-stocked bar. Everything runs on solar power, in a camp built where Bousfield had already spent a decade sleeping under canvas.