The park sits in a transition zone between East African and Southern African wildlife, and the result is an unusual breadth of species. This is one of the few places where both Greater and Lesser Kudu occur, alongside sable and roan antelope. Lion prides here can run to more than twenty animals, and leopard, cheetah and spotted hyena are regularly seen, with the occasional African wild dog among them. The birdlife is just as generous, more than 500 recorded species, the Ruaha red-billed hornbill among them.
The days are built around the private vehicle, with game drives morning and afternoon and, unusually for a national park, night drives by spotlight to find nocturnal species. In the cooler dry months, from about mid-July to mid-December, guests set out on foot with an armed ranger and a professional guide, tracking animals and reading the ground. Fly-camping, offered from mid-July to mid-November, takes the walking further still: a hike to a remote site, dome tents or open stars, and a meal cooked over the fire.
Guides sometimes burn a little dry elephant dung in a tin off the back of the 4×4, a local trick that throws a pleasant smoke
At the heart of the manor are two identical primary suites, bookended around a central lounge and dining space under a high thatched roof and joined by covered corridors. Each suite carries a reclaimed-wood bed, a roll-top brass bath and a broad indoor rain shower, with a private veranda facing the sand. For larger groups, two further canvas tents on platforms stand nearby, bringing the total to four to eight guests.
Meals are rarely eaten in the same place twice. A private chef cooks to each group’s tastes, drawing on ingredients from local Tanzanian farmers: breakfast in the open on a morning drive, lunch beneath riverside trees, dinner on the sand under the southern sky. Guides sometimes burn a little dry elephant dung in a tin off the back of the 4×4, a local trick that throws a pleasant smoke and keeps the tsetse flies at bay. At dusk, the baobabs stand black against the sunset.