The stretch of river below the Usangu wetlands sees very little other traffic. Baobabs stand over riverine woodland and floodplain margins. Sand rivers cut through acacia scrub, and rocky hills break the ground up enough to hold leopards. It is good walking terrain, open enough to read tracks and see what is ahead, varied enough to change every hour. Charlie Ruaha was placed here deliberately, in a sector of Ruaha National Park that most visitors never reach, and the walking is the reason to come.
Between July and October the bush around the camp dries out. Elephants come down to dig in the sand for what is left below the surface. Buffalo herds move past in numbers that take a while to clear, and lions and leopards work the thickets along the bank. Greater kudu browse the woodland edges, and sable turn up occasionally on the higher ground. Hippos and crocodiles crowd into the pools that are left, which is where much of the night noise comes from.
Elephants come down to dig in the sand for what is left below the surface.
A small, experienced crew handles the moves, and does the cooking over the fire and on portable burners. Meals happen when the walking allows, in the shade at midday and under the open sky at night. Drinks appear on a sandbank or a kopje at sunset, wherever the party has ended up. Once it gets dark, solar and hurricane lanterns mark out the edges of camp, and past them the bush carries on as it was. There is no set programme beyond the weather and where the animals are, and nothing to keep to but the light.
Charlie Ruaha suits walkers, and it suits people content without a plug socket. The minimum age of sixteen reflects the walking, the distance from anything and the shared bathrooms, not any wish to keep families out. Guests reach Ruaha National Park by light aircraft to Msembe airstrip and continue by vehicle into the bush. At the end of October the camp comes down and the site is left as it was found, with nothing to mark where the tents stood, which is the point of building it light in the first place.