The camp belongs to a family-run Zimbabwean safari portfolio, and the family are still very much in it. Wilde’s daughter, Sharon Stead, and her husband Phil now run operations day to day. Cedric himself still turns up at weekends to host guests, playing country songs on his guitar around the fire. It is a small, personal way of running a camp, and it carries through everything, from the welcome at the deck to the long communal dinners where the family are as likely as not to be at the table.
The waterhole in front of camp is the reason to come in the dry months. From May to October, pumped water pulls in elephant herds and buffalo in numbers that thin out sharply once the rains return. With them come zebra, giraffe, kudu, tsessebe, impala and the sable antelope the area is known for. Lion and hyena work the edges after dark, and the whoop of hyena and the grunt of a nearby pride carry easily into the suites at night. More than 300 bird species have been recorded on the concession, and the vlei fills with them as the water draws in everything else.
Lion and hyena work the edges after dark.
Khulu has arranged access into Hwange itself, and game drives run through a private entrance at Makwa Pan. What the park cannot offer, the concession supplies: the night driving, the off-road tracking and the walking that Hwange’s rules do not allow. The scale stays small and personal throughout. Dinners are taken at a long communal table or out on the deck, beside an open kitchen where guests can pull up a seat by the fire and watch the cooking.
For families, or those wanting complete privacy, Khulu’s Retreat sits a short walk from the main camp, a two-suite villa with its own chef, guide and vehicle. The standard camp takes guests aged twelve and over, with younger children welcome only on an exclusive-use basis, which makes the Retreat the natural choice for those travelling with small children. Hot water comes from a wood-fired boiler heated morning and evening, and there is no air conditioning, only overhead fans, in keeping with a camp built to sit lightly on the vlei.