Days out reach all over the island, but the first of them begins on foot. A guided walk leads out through Jambiani village and on to neighbouring Paje, finishing at the Seaweed Centre. It is the easiest way to see the village the hotel shares its beach with. Then the sea takes over. A traditional wooden dhow sails the reef at sunrise, or at sunset as the light turns gold. Chumbe Island, meanwhile, is a strictly protected marine sanctuary. It admits only a limited number of visitors, and that limit is what keeps the pressure off its reefs and the coconut crabs that live there.
Divers head north to Mnemba Atoll for PADI diving, while boats go out off Kizimkazi looking for dolphins. Inland, the sea gives way to the shade of Jozani Forest, where guides track Kirk’s red colobus monkeys through the canopy. On Changuu Island, giant tortoises live out their days at their own unhurried pace, a slower kind of encounter after the dolphins and the dive boats. Stone Town rounds off the circuit. A day among the old town’s alleys ends in Forodhani Gardens, which fill with street food stalls as evening comes on.
A traditional wooden dhow sails the reef at sunrise, or at sunset as the light turns gold.
Simon Wood and Francesca Scalfari still live on Zanzibar with their son, Luca, and the hotel runs like a house with its owners close by. The staff bring warmth without fuss. The family also runs Sharazad Wonders in Stone Town, so a few nights in the old town pair naturally with days on the beach at Jambiani. Honeymoons and wellness retreats are arranged as packages, built around the spa in the garden and the yoga shala.
Mornings here begin with a swim in one of the pools, or with a yoga class in the shala. By afternoon the choice lies between the shade of the spa and the wind out on the kite lagoon, and neither is the wrong one. Sunset belongs to a dhow on the reef, or to the pool bar as the light fades. Dinner comes last, served out on the sand at The View. After that there is only the sound of the Indian Ocean in the dark beyond the open windows, and a ceiling fan turning slowly overhead.