At the main camp, a team of resident guides rotates between parties, and none of them can be booked privately. The house is the exception. Its guide and open 4WD vehicle serve one party alone, so a morning drive can stay with a good sighting through to a late lunch, and the afternoon drive can set out whenever the heat drops. Some drives pass First World War trenches, where artefacts still lie scattered on the ground. Elsewhere they cross riverine country and miombo woodland, with stretches of open and lightly wooded savannah.
Lake Tagalala lies under an hour’s drive from camp, and a morning there is spent on the water. For an hour and a half the boat moves among hippos and crocodiles, with water birds all around. Then breakfast is laid out on the shore. Back on the hill, the hippo pools in the valley stay in view from the sun deck. The birdlife across the park is rich in every month the camp is open.
Some drives pass First World War trenches, where artefacts still lie scattered on the ground.
The house suits honeymooners as well as friends travelling together, and it comes into its own for families spanning generations. Children are welcome from twelve, the minimum age across Beho Beho. The main camp’s seven bandas lie further down the slope, out of sight, and mealtimes there are adult affairs, hosted like a dinner party. Up at the house, a family sets its own tone and its own bedtimes. Meals are taken in open-sided rooms, where the afternoon breeze moves straight through and the valley stays in view from the table.
The house is of a piece with the rest of the estate, built of locally sourced stone under palm thatch, and the whole camp was rebuilt in 2004. Reaching it is straightforward. Flights from Dar es Salaam reach the Beho Beho airstrip in about 45 minutes, a few minutes’ drive from the house, and a private Cessna Caravan or Pilatus PC-12 can also be chartered to the strip. Timing matters more: the season runs from the first of June to mid-March, when the long rains arrive and the camp closes until the end of May.