The camp takes its position from the river itself, sitting at the foot of the Endabash Waterfall rather than out on the open, more heavily visited plains to the north. Jean du Plessis founded Wayo Africa, the operator behind the camp, and the result is a small base built around one stretch of river. The escarpment rises behind, and the semi-dry riverbed runs past the mess tent as the main channel for the wildlife moving through the gorge below.
Eight tents stand on raised wooden decks scattered along the edge of the riverbed, set back into the forest for privacy. Each one opens to the gorge through gauze walls and ceilings, with a retractable weatherproof cover that lets guests watch the stars from bed. The interiors are simple rather than lavish. The beds are comfortable, the en-suite bathrooms run to flush toilets and hot bucket showers, and every tent has a private veranda. Solar power and rainwater collection keep the camp’s footprint light on the land.
It is unfussy cooking, made well, and eaten in good company under the escarpment
Meals are hearty, three-course affairs built around bread baked fresh each day. They are taken communally in the mess tent or set out along the riverbed and among the rocks, with drinks by the firepit as the light goes. A dedicated chef works from produce bought at nearby farms and markets, and the dining tent doubles as the camp’s bar. It is unfussy cooking, made well, and eaten in good company under the escarpment.
Lake Manyara supplies the wider picture beyond camp. There are tree-climbing lions and sizeable populations of elephant and baboon, hippo and giraffe, and flamingos gathered on the soda lake below the escarpment. The southern position gives an early start on the day’s game viewing, well before vehicles arrive from the northern gate. Evenings return to the sound of the waterfall and the forest, and to the chance of an elephant working its way down to the water somewhere in the dark.