The suites are tented but permanent, raised on stone plinths, their canvas walls and roofs drawing together wood, lava stone and cotton in earthy tones. Inside, a bedroom gives way to a reading corner, a dressing area and an en-suite bathroom with an egg-shaped bath and an outdoor shower, while a private veranda with a daybed opens onto long views across the lake or the plains. Spaced at least 80 metres apart, they hold a quiet that matches the view. One is a family suite, a full unit linked by a small wooden bridge to a second, smaller tented room for children or additional adults.
The main lodge is built to resemble a landing flamingo with its wings spread, a nod to the birds that gather on Lake Manyara. One wing holds the dining area and an outdoor fire, the other the bar, lounge and library, while timber, thatch and local lava stone carry the building into the landscape and raised walkways link it to the suites, the pool, the gym and the Amani Spa. The dining is gourmet but unfussy, built around fresh East African ingredients and rarely tied to set times, so meals might appear under a baobab, beside the fire, or deep in the bush.
Elephants and other wildlife have since returned to migrate through the corridor
The couple founded the Chem Chem Lodge Lodge Association, the lodge’s non-profit arm, alongside the safari company in 2008, its mandate to restore roughly 20,000 hectares of the corridor, land the government would declare abandoned the following year. Working with Tanzanian wildlife authorities, the Association funds anti-poaching rangers and runs a joint monitoring and protection centre. Elephants and other wildlife have since returned to migrate through the corridor, and the change is measurable rather than hoped-for.
The Association’s work extends well beyond wildlife. It gives local state schools infrastructure and teacher training, and it works with communities to reduce human-wildlife conflict by building predator-proof bomas and running a rapid-response team. In partnership with Hand in Hand International, it backs entrepreneurial training and village community banks that provide financial services, particularly for women. All of this is funded directly by guest stays, so every night spent here reaches beyond the concession.