The land west of Arusha climbs to around 1,400 metres, high enough that the days stay warm and the nights turn cool, and the estates here were planted for coffee rather than tourism. The lawns give way to rows of arabica running towards the mountain, and the boundary between garden and plantation is a loose one. Guided walks lead out through the coffee, past smallholdings and irrigation channels, and the return is usually slower than the outward leg because of what keeps turning up in the trees.
Flowering shrubs and old shade trees keep up a constant run of birdsong from first light, and an hour on the veranda with a pair of binoculars turns up more than most guests expect the night before a safari. The pool sits below the house with Mount Meru filling the frame behind it. Massages can be arranged in the room or out in the garden, which is a reasonable way to spend the afternoon between a long-haul arrival and a dawn flight north, when the body clock is still somewhere else entirely.
Flowering shrubs and old shade trees keep up a constant run of birdsong from first light
Arusha National Park lies about an hour away, close enough for a day among the Momella Lakes and the forested slopes of Mount Meru and dinner back at the house that evening. Closer to hand, guides run bicycle rides out through the farmland and villages, and coffee tastings on the neighbouring estates. The Monduli Mountains are good for a day’s hiking. The town itself repays a morning, for its galleries and markets and for Shanga, the workshop where artisans with disabilities produce glass and beadwork.
Two garden cottages hold interconnecting rooms, which makes travelling with children straightforward, and between them the lawns and the pool absorb the rest of it. What Katambuga House is really for, though, is the pause at either end of a safari. It is the evening after a long flight, when the veranda and the garden do the work of resetting a body clock. And it is the last night down from the Serengeti, when the bush noise has stopped, the dust is off, and Meru is still there in the window.