Jörg Gabriel came to Tanzania as a guide in the 1990s. He went on to write German-language guidebooks to the country. These days he trains the lodge’s guides himself, and keeps the old Mercedes fleet running in the family’s own garage on the farm. On foot, his team give the forest as much attention as the animals, stopping for birds and butterflies. Black-and-white colobus move through the canopy overhead as the walk goes on below. In the open glades on the way to the Tululusia waterfall, buffalo and giraffes turn up as well.
The kitchen cooks to Slow Food principles and draws on Wondergarden, a heritage-food project in which Maasai and smallholder farmers grow indigenous crops without chemicals or monocrops. The Gabriels neither own nor lease that land. Each dish can be traced to a named garden and grower, and guests can visit the plots. Breakfast is taken on the lawn or indoors, and in the afternoon high tea brings homemade cakes. Dinner runs to four courses and changes daily, served by the fire in the dining room or out on the terrace.
Black-and-white colobus move through the canopy overhead as the walk goes on below.
Donyo Gabriel grew up on the farm before studying biodiversity and ecology, and the family still lives on it: Hardy Krüger’s former home is where the Gabriels live and work. Jim Mallory’s house is now the main building, and the oldest farmhouse holds the lounge and dining room. Children of all ages are welcome, as Donyo once was, though parents keep them close, because buffalo and other game move through the grounds. Families can take one of the three villas, each with its own lounge and dining area, a fireplace, and terraces that face both mountains.
Arusha National Park holds fewer large mammals than Tanzania’s other northern parks, so Hatari Lodge suits the start or end of a safari. What the park offers instead is quieter: elephants among the forest trees, and buffalo and bushbuck down in Ngurdoto Crater. Above all, there is the freedom to walk. A first night gives time to recover from a long-haul flight beside the fire. A last one allows a final walk and an early breakfast before the drive to Kilimanjaro International Airport. Kilimanjaro is often clearest then.