Down on the Shompole plains, below the escarpment, the Ndoto hide opened in 2024 with six seats set low to the ground. At that height a lens looks across at an animal rather than down on it. Six seats is the whole house party, so nobody waits for a turn, and when the last light leaves the plains, lighting rigged for night photography keeps the session going. The hide is usually at its best in the drier months, around September and October and again in February and March.
Two soda lakes bracket the conservancy, Lake Magadi to the north and Lake Natron to the south. Both are alkaline, and Natron is a breeding site for lesser flamingos, which is reason enough to leave before dawn. The sunrise trip goes down to the water with breakfast packed, to find the flamingos in the first light. From a helicopter the salt lakes take on another scale entirely, and the volcanic peaks of Gelai and Lengai rise out of the valley, both on the Tanzanian side of the border.
By day the herds graze the plain below the house, and after dark the wildlife takes its turn.
Because Shompole is a community conservancy, guests can leave the vehicle and go out on foot. Tracking walks follow spoor across the plains with a guide reading the ground. Sunrise hikes set out before the heat builds, and longer hikes cover proper distance. After dark, night drives can be arranged on request, the spotlight beam picking out eyeshine in the grass. With guide and vehicle answering to one group, each day is planned around the party and around whatever the morning’s tracks suggest.
Shompole Conservancy covers part of a group ranch owned by the Maasai community, who set this land aside for wildlife while keeping their herds. By day the herds graze the plain below the house, and after dark the wildlife takes its turn. The cultural visits are led by the house’s Maasai guides, on land that is their own. Most of the team at Ndoto House is drawn from the surrounding community, so the people looking after guests are, for the most part, neighbours.