Game drives cross grassland that carried Delamere cattle for a century and now supports a breeding population of the Rothschild’s giraffe. Eland, dik-dik, klipspringer, buffalo and zebra share the ground with leopards and lions. After dark the spotlight beam picks out spring hares, porcupines, white-tailed mongooses and aardvarks. Walking is allowed too, out along the lake edge and through acacia thicket with a naturalist, and horseback rides follow the shoreline, none of it possible across the boundary inside Lake Nakuru National Park.
More than 450 bird species have been recorded in the conservancy, fish eagles and weavers in the acacias, waders strung along the shallows. Lake Elmenteita belongs to the Kenya Lakes System, recognised by UNESCO and registered as a Ramsar wetland, which is part of why the pelican breeding islands matter well beyond the view from a veranda. Nakuru town is roughly half an hour away, and the Nderit Gate into Lake Nakuru National Park is close enough for a full day among the rhinos and a return in time for dinner.
Evenings run to sundowners on high ground, and hyenas and jackals somewhere out in the dark.
The drive from Nairobi covers around 135 kilometres, roughly two hours on the Nakuru road, and charter flights land at an airstrip beside the camp. Excursions reach further into the Rift Valley Lakes, to Lake Bogoria, where hot springs vent beside the flamingos, and to Lake Baringo for boat-based birding. Days begin early, with coffee brought to the tent before first light and the calls of feeding waterfowl carrying across the water. Evenings run to sundowners on high ground, and hyenas and jackals somewhere out in the dark. Dinner comes later, by the fire.
Between drives there is more to do here than the camp’s size suggests. Mountain bikes go out on the conservancy trails, and archery and yoga run on the lawns. Watercolour classes fill the quiet middle hours, there are Swahili and cooking lessons, and the guiding team give talks after dark. A pool sits on the lawn, with a spa for massages nearby. Children from three years old are welcome, and babysitting can be arranged. The rhythm suits anyone who wants game drives at first light and long, unhurried afternoons watching the water change colour.