Nairobi National Park is that rare thing, a piece of wilderness pressed against the edge of the capital, with a city skyline visible from inside it. From the lodge, the acacia plains, the river valley and the distant towers all gather into a single view. The birdlife alone runs to more than 400 recorded species, while the game drives regularly turn up lion and leopard, cheetah and buffalo, giraffe and zebra and wandering wildebeest. Above all there are the rhino, whose sightings are a particular strength here and draw what most guests come to see, at the start or the close of a longer Kenya safari.
The suites fall into two groups. Lower down, closer to the main lodge, sit the River Suites. Higher into the rock face are the Cliff Suites, reached by a small funicular that opens onto wider views across the valley. Each has a private veranda facing the park and a large bed under mosquito netting, an en-suite bathroom with walk-in shower and bath, and a fireplace for the cooler months of July to October, when Nairobi’s altitude above 1,600 metres makes the evenings genuinely cold.
Each has a private veranda facing the park and a large bed under mosquito netting
The kitchen draws on produce from the lodge garden and eggs from its own free-range chickens, running its menus through British, French, Thai and Indian influences. There is an outdoor pizza oven and dinners on the terrace, a sunken flagstone dining area beside the pool, and a lounge of deep sofas and substantial fireplaces that opens straight onto the river. Little of it feels arranged, and none of it feels like a hotel.
The days need not begin and end with the Land Cruiser. In the adjacent Kitengela Conservation Area we can arrange walking safaris, tracking giraffe, eland and impala on foot, while excursions run further afield to the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and the Giraffe Centre. Helicopter charters can compress transfers or reach areas further out, and in-room massages and slow hours by the pool fill the gaps between drives.