In the 1950s, the family’s maternal grandfather opened a mkahawa, a coffee shop, in Mwiria Village in Meru, and the hospitality trade has run through the family ever since. Karen came later. The house began as a private residence, and the eleven bedrooms guests sleep in now were once family bedrooms, adapted one by one rather than built for the purpose. Members of the Muriungi family run it today alongside long-serving staff, and House of Waine has never been sold to a hotel group.
Most guests come either side of a safari, and the house is set up for exactly that kind of arrival or departure. Wilson Airport, where the bush flights leave from, is a short drive away. Jomo Kenyatta International lies further off, on the other side of the city, but is reachable without crossing the central business district. Karen stays quiet at any hour, so a dawn arrival off a night flight can become a bath, eggs on the veranda, and a sleep in a dark room before the day’s plans begin.
Rhino, lion and buffalo move against the Nairobi skyline in the first light of the day.
Departures work the same way in reverse. Nothing about the schedule forces an early checkout or a rushed transfer. The pool and the garden stay available until the car comes, a late lunch under the trees is as easy to arrange as a six o’clock breakfast, and staff work around a midnight flight as readily as an early one. It is this flexibility, more than any single feature, that suits House of Waine to the first or last night of a longer Kenya itinerary, when travellers are either newly landed or already packed for home.
An early start puts a vehicle at the park gates for first light. Rhino, lion and buffalo move against the Nairobi skyline in the first light of the day. Game drives stay within daylight hours and on designated tracks, under Kenya Wildlife Service rules. The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust’s orphaned elephants take their milk and mud bath during the late-morning visiting hour, and Rothschild’s giraffes come to eye level from the raised walkway at the Giraffe Centre. The Karen Blixen Museum and the Kazuri Beads Factory fill the afternoon, and none of it asks you to cross into central Nairobi.