Gabriella’s involvement runs well beyond hosting. A dedicated cook, she oversees the menus herself and trained the chef, and the kitchen leans on fresh local produce and the day’s seafood, moving between Mediterranean, coastal Swahili and Asian influences. Meals shift with the mood: dinner might be served in the formal upstairs room with its ocean views, or at a table set out on the sand, or by candlelight under the stars on the roof. Dining on the beach, in heavy wooden chairs with the tide a few metres away, is one of the house’s quiet pleasures.
Activities are arranged rather than scheduled, in the way of a private house. A traditional dhow can be hired for a sunset cruise or a day of snorkelling with lunch aboard, and the waters off Lamu reward the effort, for dolphins move through the channel, sea turtles nest along the beaches, and the archipelago sees the occasional whale shark. For the more restless there is fishing, kite surfing, water skiing and wakeboarding to be taken up with local instructors, while yoga and massage come quietly to the house itself.
On Manda Island, the Takwa Ruins mark a fifteenth-century Swahili settlement worth an afternoon
Lamu Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a short boat ride away, its Swahili stone architecture and narrow lanes best explored on foot. On Manda Island, the Takwa Ruins mark a fifteenth-century Swahili settlement worth an afternoon. These excursions are simple to arrange, though the pull of the house tends to keep guests close to the beach, the pool and the roof, and for those drawn to the marine life on the doorstep, there is the chance to adopt a turtle through the Lamu Marine Conservation Trust.
The Trust patrols nesting beaches across the archipelago and works with local fishermen to release turtles caught by accident. With nine en-suite double bedrooms, The Fort suits a family or a group taking the house together, up to eighteen guests, with a full staff to see to them. Gabriella still runs it as her own home, and it shows in every detail. This is a house lent out to guests rather than one run as a hotel, and the difference is felt from the moment the studded door swings open.