Helmeted guineafowl and spurfowl are the first to greet new arrivals, scratching at the ground outside each chalet. Hornbills come later, drawn by the seed left beside the sala, a thatched open-air lounge set apart from the bedroom with daybeds and a Nespresso station. With 80 to 100 metres between chalets, the nearest neighbours are usually the ones with feathers. A small waterhole among the chalets keeps the birders among guests occupied.
Leopard brings most guests here, but the reserve holds a wider cast. Brown hyaena are tracked in much the same way, and white rhino are followed on foot with the reserve’s anti-poaching team. Night drives go out after dinner in search of aardwolf, bat-eared fox and honey badger. For those curious about the work behind it all, the Into AfriCat, Behind the Science session gives two and a half to three hours to the research itself. It moves from telemetry practice and camera traps to live EarthRanger data and the identification of individual leopards.
Night drives go out after dinner in search of aardwolf, bat-eared fox and honey badger.
The drive north from Windhoek takes about two and a half hours, and Okonjima Nature Reserve, on the road to Etosha, makes a natural overnight on the way. Light aircraft land instead on the reserve’s own airstrip, fifteen minutes from camp. A second night is worth taking, since it opens up pangolin tracking on foot, available only to guests staying two nights or more. The camp itself is set 2.5 km from Plains Camp in the quiet south of the reserve, and children are welcome from the age of twelve.
Evenings begin around the firepit on the lawn, drinks in hand, as the light drains off the waterhole and the low hills beyond go dark. Dinner follows in the lapa, a long building shaped like a camelthorn seed pod. It holds reception and a lounge with fireplaces inside and out, and its tables, some under cover and some in the open, all face the waterhole. By day the pool belongs to Okonjima Luxury Bush Camp guests alone.