Diving the Crab, the PADI and SSI centre Scianna established before he built the island resort, runs boats out to the reefs beyond the channel. Closer in, the snorkelling starts straight off the beach, inside the Diani-Chale marine reserve. Turtles come ashore to nest between January and March, hauling up the island’s own beach. Whale watching runs as a seasonal outing, timed to the whale-shark season that moves along the Kenyan coast from November through March.
At high tide the kayaks head into the mangroves that fringe the island, explored slowly rather than covered at speed. When the water pulls back, a walking route opens around the rock pools and sheltered bays. The forest at the southern end is left alone, part of the island’s setting, entered only on a guided walk. Back among the buildings, three swimming pools catch the day, one of them saltwater. Beside them the Maisha Poa spa opens nine treatment rooms to the outside air.
When the water pulls back, a walking route opens around the rock pools and sheltered bays.
The restaurants divide the food by style, not formality. The main one works through Kenyan and international dishes, seafood, salads and pasta, with a buffet breakfast and eggs made to order. Above a small café, a trattoria turns out pizza, pasta and burrata. A sushi restaurant is set beside the second pool. Tea comes in the afternoon on the main veranda under the greenery, or on the beach with the water in front of you. Evenings bring beach barbecues and a sunset deck, flagged through the resort’s own booking app.
Ukunda Airstrip lies about a 40-minute drive from the mainland jetty, which makes a few days here easy to add either side of a safari. Excursions run to the Kisite-Mpunguti Marine National Park, and north, a short way up the coast, to the shops and restaurants of Diani Beach. There is little competing light at night, so the stars come out in full. Children of all ages are welcome, though balconies, walkways and rooms built over water call for close supervision with those under six, and the Tower Suites have been refitted with a lounge and day bed for families.