From roughly May to October the pans bake dry and pale, firm enough to drive across, and the camp’s guided quad bikes run out onto a crust where distance stops meaning much. Rain changes it completely. Between November and April the salt greens over into grassland and tens of thousands of zebra and wildebeest move through, trailed by black-maned Kalahari lions and cheetah. In March and April flamingos gather on the flooded shallows and the pans turn pink. Quad biking pauses when the crust softens.
The villa’s private concession borders Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, which is why night drives and off-road tracking are permitted here. Much of what lives on these salt plains only moves after dark, and spotlights find it. Brown hyena, aardwolf and bat-eared fox turn up on evening drives, with honey badger too, while gemsbok and springbok hold the open ground through the heat of the day. With a vehicle to themselves, guests can follow a set of tracks for as long as they choose, and turn back for nobody.
Much of what lives on these salt plains only moves after dark, and spotlights find it
Days end at the pool on the deck, looking out at nothing but pan. Meals arrive wherever they are asked for, a picnic set out on the salt, a barbecue by the fire, a wine-paired dinner in the dining tent, or pizza for children who have had enough of grown-up food. Mornings begin with tea on a silver tray under a velvet cosy. The villa keeps its own mahogany cabinet of curiosities, holding fossils, Stone Age tools and mineral specimens from the basin.
Light aircraft from Maun reach the nearest airstrip, and a short drive brings guests in from there. Helicopters can land on site, and scenic flights over the pans can be arranged with the doors off. Guests keep the run of the neighbouring camp whenever they want it, including afternoon tea on Persian rugs in its tea tent. Otherwise the two bedrooms, the pool and the quiet belong to one group alone. Children of any age are welcome, and horse riding across the desert plains suits confident riders.