The main villa holds five air-conditioned suites, each with a king bed, its own lounge and an ocean-facing patio with showers indoors and out. Two double-storey wooden bandas stand on the far side of the island, hand-carved and roofed in makuti, open enough for the sea breeze to move through them at night. Shared spaces run to a library, a gym and a cocktail bar, and to a dining table set beneath a peaked shingle roof. Extra beds go into the suites for children, and the whole house belongs to whoever has taken it.
Guests complete preference sheets before arriving, and the kitchen works from those. Lobster and crab are bought that morning from fishermen on Mafia Island, oysters lifted off the reef and shucked on the beach, fish curries built on hand-squeezed coconut milk and Zanzibar spice. Lunch is often taken on a tidal sandbank, where the staff put up a tent, carpets, lanterns and a working grill. The incoming tide erases the whole strip of sand before the afternoon is out. Dinner might be a fire on the beach, or a table laid on the deck of an Arab dhow.
The incoming tide erases the whole strip of sand before the afternoon is out.
Whale sharks feed in the Mafia Channel from October to March, and the island’s boats go looking for them. Diving runs on gear made from recycled ocean plastic, with PADI instruction on the house reef minutes offshore and excursions into Chole Bay inside the Mafia Island Marine Park. Seabobs, jet skis, paddleboards and kayaks come out of the boathouse, a dedicated boat handles the game fishing, and a helicopter can be arranged for a day in Zanzibar or a spice farm on the mainland. Ashore there is a floodlit tennis court, a yoga pavilion and a forest trail past nesting egrets.
Rianne Laan has worked as resident marine biologist here since 2017, and Ropes of Hope, a coral nursery programme, employs people from Mafia Island to build rope and mangrove-pole nurseries, grow coral fragments and plant them back onto damaged sections of the house reef. Guests can join the monitoring work alongside her, and nesting turtles are tracked through the season. Mafia Island’s rangers use the island as a base for patrols against dynamite fishing, and a staff of more than forty, most of them from Mafia Island, keeps the place running.