In the northern Palmwag Concession, near the boundary of Skeleton Coast National Park, two tributaries of the usually dry Hoanib River come together, and it is here, deep in the lower Hoanib Valley of Namibia’s Kunene region, that Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp sits. You reach it only by flying. Light aircraft come down on gravel plains ringed by rugged hills and yellow dune fields, in one of the least populated corners of the country.
Few camps in Namibia combine both within a single stay
Eight canvas suites look out over a broad valley and a waterhole where giraffes, gemsbok and, on occasion, desert lions cross the open ground within view of the tents. The defining draw, though, is the run to the Atlantic, from desert-adapted elephants inland to the seal colonies and shipwrecks on the coast. Few camps in Namibia combine both within a single stay, and this one leads you the whole way, from riverbed to shore.
The camp doubles as a base for research into the region’s desert-adapted lion and brown hyaena, and that scientific purpose runs through the guiding, so that a game drive here carries more interpretation than most. The Hoanib riverbed acts as a corridor through country that looks unable to sustain much at all, yet it supports elephant and black rhino, giraffe and Hartmann’s mountain zebra, gemsbok, springbok and kudu. Leopard and cheetah move through too, drawn, like everything else, to the reliable water of the inland springs at Klein Oase, Auses and Mudorib.
Leopard and cheetah move through too, drawn, like everything else
Mornings might follow elephants along the riverbed. Later in a stay, a full-day expedition drives down the river into the national park, crossing dune fields past Klein Oase to reach the coast at Möwe Bay, before turning home by scenic flight along the shore, over seal colonies and rusting wrecks. The ivory canvas suites were built to withstand desert extremes, from the morning fog that rolls in off the cold Benguela Current to the frigid nights and the afternoon sandstorms.
The eight suites run entirely on solar power, down to the small solar geysers heating the water at each tent. Interiors keep to a neutral palette of sand, rock and dry-grass tones, and floor-to-ceiling windows face the waterhole. Outside the glass the desert stays austere; inside there are plush blankets, robes and a cookie jar restocked each day. Because lions move through the same ground the camp occupies, guides escort guests between the tents and the main area after dark, a small precaution that tells you exactly where you are.
Meals track the day rather than a fixed schedule. Dinners are often served in the open air beneath the desert sky, while bush breakfasts and picnic lunches go out on the longer excursions, including the drive to the coast. The central lounge, bar and dining area sit under a double canvas structure warmed by an open fire. Evenings otherwise settle around a fire pit and a small pool looking out over the valley, with sundowners in the Hoanib as the gravel plains turn warm at dusk.
Evenings otherwise settle around a fire pit and a small pool looking out over the valley.
The remoteness here is genuine. This stretch of Namibia stays largely beyond reach of anything but light aircraft, and that is precisely what keeps the wildlife and the quiet intact. Guests fly in from Doro Nawas, landing on gravel plains ringed by rugged hills and dune fields. What follows is a desert where fog rolls off the cold Benguela Current, nights turn frigid, and afternoon sandstorms move across a valley that still supports elephant, giraffe, rhino and lion.
The camp operates as a joint venture with the neighbouring Anabeb, Torra and Sesfontein conservancies, so tourism revenue reaches the communities who share this land. It also supports research into desert-adapted lion and brown hyaena, work guests can learn about directly from the team who carry it out. Children aged six and over are welcome, and families with younger children book a private vehicle, with the two-bedroom family suite suiting them well.
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accommodation
Eight canvas suites stand across the valley, seven of them twin-bedded and one a two-bedroom family unit with two en-suite bathrooms and a master whose beds convert to a king. Each opens onto a shaded veranda over the valley and waterhole, with an en-suite shower, writing desk and minibar within. All are solar-powered throughout, cooled by pedestal fans and warmed by solar geysers rather than air-conditioning.
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activities
Morning and afternoon 4x4 drives and guided nature walks explore the Hoanib riverbed and the Palmwag Concession, where night drives are also permitted. Full-day excursions reach the inland springs at Klein Oase, Auses and Mudorib and, for stays of three nights or more, the Skeleton Coast at Möwe Bay via national park routes, typically returning by scenic flight.
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conservation
Hoanib is the field base for the Desert Lion Conservation Project, Dr Philip Stander's decades-long study of Namibia's desert-adapted lions, with collaring funded through the Wilderness Wildlife Trust. The camp also hosts long-term brown hyaena research that feeds the IUCN's specialist group, and it runs as a joint venture with the Anabeb, Torra and Sesfontein conservancies, which earn income from every stay.
Get in touch and let’s start the conversation. An initial consultation helps us understand what you’re looking for, whether that’s specific experiences, luxury touches, or marking a special occasion, and from there we’ll guide you through what’s possible so you can decide if we’re the right fit.
You reach this camp only by air. Light aircraft come down on gravel plains deep in the lower Hoanib Valley, flying from Windhoek in two legs of two to three hours in total, often via Damaraland, followed by a short transfer to camp. Self-drive is not an option for this remote corner.
We build the charters in and time them around your wider Namibia route, and we will confirm the flight plan when we plan the trip. If you would rather have the aircraft to yourselves, we can arrange a private charter, typically a Cessna Caravan or Pilatus PC-12, flown to your own schedule.
This stretch of the northwest carries a low, seasonal malaria risk. The coast and its dry riverbeds hold very little standing water, so risk is at its lowest in the dry winter, from about June to October, which is the main time to come, and rises modestly in the green summer after any rain.
Guidance changes from year to year, so we always suggest confirming the current position with a travel clinic or your doctor before you travel, along with the usual precautions against bites after dark.
The Hoanib valley can be hot and dry by day, while mornings near the coast are cool and often grey and foggy, because the cold Benguela current sits just offshore. The swing between the two catches people out.
Bring light, breathable clothes and sun protection for the inland heat and dust, then warm layers, a windproof jacket and a fleece for cold, foggy coastal mornings and chilly nights. Something warm to sleep in is worth packing.
Families are welcome, and the camp has a two-bedroom family suite with its own bathrooms and a master whose beds convert to a king. This is a remote, fly-in camp with long drives, so it suits older children who are comfortable with full days out in the vehicle, and younger children may need a private vehicle on the drives.
Tell us their ages and we will confirm the current policy for them, arrange the family suite and set up any private guiding.
The camp's signature run reaches the Atlantic, from desert-adapted elephant inland to the seal colonies and shipwrecks on the coast. It is a full-day excursion out toward Moewe Bay, offered on stays of three nights or more and usually returning by scenic flight over the dunes.
For that reason we suggest planning at least three nights here if reaching the coast matters to you. Shorter stays still give you the Hoanib valley, its waterhole and the desert wildlife, but the coast run needs the time.
The Hoanib valley draws desert-adapted elephant, giraffe and gemsbok, and, on occasion, desert lion, to the waterhole and the riverbed within view of the tents. The camp also doubles as a research base for the region's desert lion and brown hyaena, so the guiding carries more interpretation than most, and a drive here is as much about understanding the animals as counting them.
Nothing is guaranteed in country this arid and empty, which is exactly why a sighting here feels earned. We will set your expectations honestly before you come.
rated five stars by our clients
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our approach
Every journey starts with a conversation. We take the time to understand your vision before we start planning.
Whether by phone or in person, we work with you directly to shape something that is considered, personal, and expertly delivered.
