A wooden boardwalk runs out across the vlei to the main building, which stands on the pan itself, so that the waterholes are always in plain view. The restaurant and bar are here, with a pool deck outside and open fireplaces that are lit when the nights turn cold. One lounge is given over to whisky and cigars. The suites are spaced along the edge of the vlei, each a small cluster of tented bedroom and living area, with a shaded deck and a sun terrace. All are screened from their neighbours, yet open to the water.
The sundowner drive climbs to a dune crest and stops there. In the last hour of light the dunes turn from red through orange to a silvery grey. Back at the lodge a gin and tonic appears by the fire. Winter nights in the Namibian Kalahari turn sharply cold, and the fires burn wood from bush cleared to let the land recover. Dinner follows, a set menu with a choice of meat or vegetarian, served indoors or at tables under the stars.
From the bed in the smaller of the two superior suites, the waterhole is in full view
In 2021 the same pan that holds the waterholes filled far enough to flood the lodge. It closed, and was rebuilt with suites that have tented bedrooms and wide windows turned to the water. From the bed in the smaller of the two superior suites, the waterhole is in full view. The larger, with two bedrooms, is reached through a thatched passage and is built at the mouth of a dry riverbed that feeds the vlei only after heavy rain. Here the water is never far, for a permanent waterhole lies close by.
Children are welcome, and the two-bedroom suite sleeps a family of four, and we check which activities each child can join before you travel. The walkways are open and animals wander through the grounds, so younger children stay within arm’s reach of an adult. Mountain bikes and fat bikes, built for soft sand, are kept at the lodge for guests to take out along the marked trails, and runners use the same routes. For country beyond walking range, open 4x4s set out in the morning on a scenic drive through the dunes.