Each tent is raised a couple of metres above the channel bank on timber poles, a canvas room under a thatched roof carried on a wooden frame. Glazed sliding doors open onto a private deck. Large mesh windows let in the breeze and the night sounds, and canvas flaps drop over them on cool evenings. Inside, a four-poster bed waits under its netting beneath a ceiling fan, with armchairs and a shelf of reference books close by. The en-suite bathroom has a walk-in shower and a separate toilet room, and raised boardwalks link every tent to the main lodge.
The boardwalks lead to a tall, open-sided lodge of timber and thatch, hung with Botswana basketwork. An open-sided lounge and a small library share one level. The dining area runs long, and the bar looks out over the channel. Breakfast is often taken on the deck above the waterhole, and brunch brings soups and salads with fresh bread. On set nights dinner moves to the boma, a fire-lit enclosure open to the sky. The kitchen leans on local staples such as seswa, oxtail, and samp and beans, with produce bought in Maun and from nearby communities.
Owls call from the dark trees, and hyenas whoop somewhere beyond the platform.
One night can be spent away from the tent altogether, on the star bed, a raised wooden platform made up with a netted bed. Dinner is served there under open sky, and a guide beds down within earshot for the night. Owls call from the dark trees, and hyenas whoop somewhere beyond the platform. Back in camp the fire pit is lit at dawn and again after dark. Every vehicle returning from a drive is met with a towel, cool or warm depending on the hour, and with a two-handed wave from the staff.
Light aircraft fly guests in from Maun or Kasane, and the last forty minutes to camp are a game drive in their own right. Children are welcome from the age of six. Families with young children book a private vehicle, so each drive can follow the children’s own pace. When the channel carries enough water, boating and fishing join the programme. When it recedes, the guides drive and walk the grassland it leaves behind, following the game across what was once the channel bed.