Rebuilt each May and dismantled again in November, the camp lives a seasonal life that keeps its footprint light, and gives the strong sense of camping within a working floodplain instead of beside one. Its five Meru-style tents have been refurbished with new canvas and updated interiors, each holding twin beds under mosquito netting. The en-suite bathroom is open to the air, with a flush toilet and an outdoor shower. There is a simple fan, and private seating that faces the river through the trees, close enough to hear the water and the elephants that come to drink.
This is a proper simple bush camp, and it suits guests who want exactly that. The meals are cooked over the fire, the bathrooms are open to the sky, and the big animals move through on their own schedule rather than the camp’s. Elephants pass at night, and lion, leopard, hyena and wild dog use the same ground. That is why guests are escorted between tent and fire once it is dark. Anyone wanting a fully enclosed, climate-controlled lodge experience will find it somewhere else.
Elephants pass at night, and lion, leopard, hyena and wild dog use the same ground.
Breakfast comes at first light, the mist still lifting off the river, hippos surfacing and fish eagles calling, before the morning’s walk or drive sets out. The days follow the animals, not a clock. Meals are communal, taken at a long table in the open-sided dining tent beside the channel. Dinner is usually served outside near the fire, where elephants often feed within sight of the table as it is laid, and the coffee and nightcaps carry on around the firepit as lion call across the floodplain.
Close to 400 bird species have been recorded in Mana Pools, and the riverine woodland around the camp holds kingfishers, bee-eaters and fish eagles alongside the larger game. Children are welcome, with higher minimum ages for walking and canoeing left to the guides’ discretion, and families with younger ones book a private vehicle. Five tents make the whole place easy to take over, which suits a single family or a group of friends travelling together. Sister camp Vundu hosted the BBC Dynasties crew filming the Painted Wolf episode, with Nick Murray guiding the production.